I'm in beautiful St.Ives, Cornwall, at the moment. I usually take a little break in March and am usually drawn back here. Its such a magical place with it's strange changing light and abundance of beaches. It's so quiet at this time of year too so it's possible to wander alone by the sea and gather one's thoughts.
In my mind I often plan a week of just sitting, listening to the sea, reading and knitting........but the reality is usually a little more adventurous. The first thing that happens upon arrival is the desire to swim in the sea. Yes, it is only March and the sea is still fairly cold but this happens anyway. This objective was achieved on the second day and it was wonderful.
It somehow wakes me up, resets the balance and swooshes away all that accumulated land-locked melancholy. It's so transformative, even if it does result in legs the colour of pink cocktail sausages!
Buoyed by this early success, I planned my next swimming adventure. I had long wanted to swim in the lovely sea-pool at Cape Cornwall and my OH was equally keen to visit the abundance of the remains of the mines along the coast of West Penwith. We planned our route from St. Just, out to Ballowwall Burial Barrow and then back northwards, via Cape Cornwall, Botallack and Levant mines, finally arriving in Pendeen to catch the bus back to St.Ives. Following the coastline it would be a walk of around 5 to 6 miles.......easy....under normal circumstances (more about that later!)
We caught an early bus from St, Ives to St. Just, a journey of around 1hr.30mins. I am not a good traveller on buses but I took a travel pill and luckily all was well:) We arrived in St Just just as The Cook Book Cafe opened for the day and we enjoyed a lovely cup of coffee and breakfast there. It's a lovely, friendly , cosy little cafe and it was great that they opened at 9am (especially in early March).
By 9.45 am we were off on our little trek :)
Ballowall Barrow is a burial site of both neolithic and bronze age use. It is situated on a truly spectacular site on the West Penwith coast.
Heading North on our windy clifftop walk , Cape Cornwall came into view.
We walked on and wound our way down to the cove and there was the sea pool ✨
I couldn't wait to get down there and get in! It was a moderately cold-ish day, around 5C but it was blowing a hoolie with a biting Atlantic wind making it feel colder....but it would be fine...I had a couple of layers and a very warm jacket with a brilliant hood. I would have my clothes ready to put on and I wouldn't stay in too long. Nothing could go wrong (more about this later!)
It was a wonderful swim. The water was cold but a few deep breaths and I was in. Its a special place and so fab to see and hear the sea waves rolling in and crashing just beyond the end of the pool.
I felt as though I could have stayed in there all day but I know I am prone to getting cold quite quickly so I stayed in for no longer than ten minutes. What I hadn't bargained for was the freezing hailstorm which happened just as I was making my way out. It didn't bother me but it did manage to make my lovely waiting warm clothes very cold and wet within seconds. I was dressed in a flash and we made our way back up to our clifftop path to walk on to the mines. I felt ok...eventually my legs seemed to warm up but, to be honest, my hands , arms and shoulders never really did.
This coastline is amazing. Passing alternately through valleys and along clifftops , all rich in the evidence of Cornwall's industrial past, I can only imagine the resilience and determination of the people who worked in these mines, underground, so close to the elements.
By the time we reached Botallack I was feeling distinctly under the weather, shivery, aching all over and really tired. We carried on to Levant, naively thinking we might be able to get a hot drink there. Alas, as it was late afternoon, everything was shut ....and it also started raining torrentially! Onwards to Pendeen. It's a good thing my OH was there....I don't think I would have made it there otherwise.
The man in the Costcutter at Pendeen made us a lovely cup of coffee which we drank in the bus stop, waiting for the bus back to St. Ives. The OH bought me an egg sandwich but I couldn't eat a thing!
The 1hr 40m bus journey back is a blur! I know I had to concentrate hard on not throwing up..Lol.
Once back I warmed myself up gradually in a warmish bath (if you ever find yourself with mild hypothermia it is not a good idea to suddenly get into a very hot bath), then I went to bed. I couldn't eat all the next day and felt absolutely shattered! I'm fine now and reflecting on lessons learned.
1) If your instinct is telling you to take a big flask of hot tea with you, even though it will make your already full rucksack even heavier....do it!!
2) Take one more layer of warm clothing than you actually think you will need and put it all into a waterproof bag FFS!
3) I am not invincible ;)
This was a case of mild hypothermia and it was horrible. It was mild because I was still conscious and could function, albeit in a limited way. Proper full blown hypothermia can be fatal. Never underestimate the power of the cold. If your core temperature is too low for too long it can affect your ability to think and to keep going. Eventually it can lead to vital organs shutting down and death! (Sounds dramatic, I know...but it's true). So if you're going to leap into cold water don't be daft, like I was, and make sure you've prepared for every unexpected weather eventuality:) I will be more prepared next time.
I can't wait to walk this amazing route again and to swim in this amazing place again and to put that extra pair of long-johns on and the extra woolly jumper and get my hands around that flask of hot tea when I get out. :)
xxx💕